The Diamond and Jewelry Business Today
All things in the universe are on a path which continually change and diamonds are no exception. The diamond business continues to change, evolve and in the past few years, the diamond industry has experienced an immense change by ‘a big disruptor’ which are; Laboratory Grown Diamonds. There have been so many reports, claims, opinions, and an enormous amount of misinformation surrounding both mined and lab grown diamonds that many have become confused about what is really true and factual.
I endeavor to eliminate misconceptions, regarding the surroundings of each, social implications, environmental standards, economics, and market analysis.
Without bias, these are the material facts:
1. Definitions – diamond is formally defined as: a crystalline carbon material element. That said, the official recognized definition does not delineate the method of production, the source of material, nor indications of value, rarity, production capacities or market values
No matter what you have been told, I can only suggest to see the physics of each material below and decide on your own.
The Federal Trade Commission of the United States was presented with the case to differentiate on several occasions and the conclusions of the FTC commission are as follows:
a) The FTC ruled the definition of a diamond is:
A MINERAL CONSISTING OF PURE CARBON CRYSTALIZED IN THE ISOMETRIC SYSTEM
The FTC eliminated the word ‘natural’ from the diamond definition of its original 1956 definition
b) The FTC determined that modern technological advancements have made it possible to create a diamond in a laboratory and the diamond produced from a laboratory and a diamond that is earth mined are identical. The FTC conclusion is that both have the same optical, physical, and chemical properties, thus they are both diamonds, regardless of origin.
c) Outdated and misleading terms lead the FTC to make determinations on the nomenclature. The word ‘synthetic’ will cause consumer confusion i.e. for competitors to label another selling lab grown diamond as ‘synthetic’ is deceptive, since they are both diamonds by definition.
The FTC resolved that linguistically, the common usage of the word synthetic implies simulated, substitute, imitation, or fake, while this is not the case. Synthetic is an inaccurate term for laboratory grown diamond for the scientific reason that synthesis cannot apply to a single element of carbon. Carbon cannot be synthesized, as gold, silver, platinum etc., hence there is no such thing as ‘synthetic diamond’.
2. Material – Because the material is identical of both, the first and foremost myth is that a jeweler or professional can distinguish by eye a mined diamond from a laboratory grown diamond. There is NO SUCH HUMAN or even DIAMOND EXPERT. The reason: because they are both diamonds in every aspect physically, optically, chemically and atomically; there is no difference except the fact that one was grown above the earth and the other underneath the earth. Anyone claiming to have the ability to distinguish by eye one from the other is either A) guessing, or B) pretending to have super powers. Only with sophisticated spectroscopic laboratory equipment which measures and analyzes growth patterns using phosphorescence through long and short-wave UV radiation analysis measurement can determine which grew under or above earth.
Fact check: It is 100% NOT possible to tell apart (be cautious of anyone claiming to be able to see any difference by eye – impossible).
Because both lab grown and mined diamonds have identical chemical and atomic composition, beware of anyone telling you that one is not ‘real’, ‘composite’, ‘hybrid’ or ‘manufactured’ to persuade you to buy one or the other. Always ask for a third-party certification of the diamond when purchasing. Beware also of sellers of other material that are diamond ‘simulants’ intended to replicate diamonds visually and appear as diamond such as Moissanite, cubic-zirconia, rutile, YAG, GGG, white quartz, white spinel, white topaz, foil backs, etc.
These have monumental differences in physical, chemical and optical properties from diamond. A simple $15 Diamond tester will show you results in a matter of seconds.
3. Social Responsibility & Sustainability
Without prejudice toward either direction and in fairness, it is most important to expose the pros and cons of both, allowing people to form their own opinions and make their own decisions.
a) Social responsibility – While it is well known that ‘Blood Diamonds’ are a part of the reality of the diamond trade, not all diamonds are blood diamonds. The most accurate estimate would probably be around one third only of diamonds in the market place are such. Blood diamonds as defined by the UN Charter are any diamonds originating from a war zone and sold to finance war efforts, terrorism, or warlord’s activities against governments. Unfortunately, the UN did not include in the definition of blood diamonds and its efforts many other existing social injustices and human rights abuses including human trafficking, forced labor, drug trafficking, money laundering, slavery, child labor, government backed security force violence, sexual and physical violence amongst much other human suffering in the process of diamond mining. In 2003, The United Nations set up The Kimberly Process Scheme in hopes of eliminating ‘Blood Diamonds’ from the world market place. Initially the world saw this as the panacea however it has essentially been a failure for many reasons and the founder resigned in 2009 stating that he could no longer continue in good conscience in a collapsed system of corrupt governments, without effective enforcement methods, oversight, failing compliance, and continued human rights abuses. While the KP process still exists, it has limited powers to end the human suffering. Conversely, to my knowledge I have no information to date of any such murders, violence, trafficking or human rights abuses in the production of laboratory grown diamonds.
b) Sustainability – This becomes a bit of a complex debate, and the two sides are as follows:
- Laboratory grown diamond producers state that since their diamonds are produced in a laboratory with no mining, no digging, no displaced earth, no dumping of mine waste, no pollution of lab environment, etc. with minimal carbon footprint therefore being a ‘greener’ choice for future generations.
- The mined Diamond producers state that the lab claims are untrue since there is an enormous amount of electricity used in the laboratory, which originated from fossil fuels, hence it is not as ‘green’ as claimed. Additionally, the metals in the huge machinery utilized was mined and therefore is a contradiction of green claims.
An expert in each energy, physics, economics and environmental sciences would stand most qualified to determine and measure each claim, without which, the reader is free to assess each perspective and draw your own conclusions.
4. Values – Lab Grown vs. Mined
The first reality of both mined diamonds and lab grown should the concept of perception of value. Essentially the value of anything one buys be it shoes, a belt, a watch, a car, or a diamond is what it represents to the purchaser. The amount you pay is the transactional price which coincides with your preferences, values, economics, brands, etc. and finding the right combination of all these is what leads to decision.
Mined diamonds are higher priced while lab grown are lower priced. This has many implications including being able to acquire a larger, higher quality diamond for less. On the other hand, the resale of lab grown will be lower or negligible. Each should be considered proportionately.
If great value is place on the origin, number of years in existence, the emotional or romantic folklore and mystery of earth mined diamonds, than a mined diamond is the obvious winner. If the greater value is place on price, affordability, size, color, quality, economic affordability, then lab grown diamonds are the winner.
More important than being price conscience is being value conscience with all things being equal. Most consumers will ultimately decide by their own values, budget and personal experiences.